10/01/2013

LFW SS14


J.W. Anderson: This season, J.W. Anderson has obviously taken a lighter mood with minimalism. The use of
a lighter white palette is different from his darker 'all black' collections seen before. This season, its crisp and





sleek with a play with textiles and techniques. Overlapping layers, twisting, pleating, volumizing...the list goes
on. Sheers were used constantly throughout this collection, creating full and textural pieces through pleating.
These details are great on contributing to an overall effect. What I loved were the clean crisp white folded tops
shown above. You could call this collection naked, too much skin shown but its probably just an artistic expression
that has got my attention. 

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Preen: Wow. Preen and Erdem have always been competing against each other for my favour! Both show
great technique with prints, but I've got to say this season, Preen has won my heart! (prints-wise)

Showcased at the Natural History Museum of London (Darwin's exhibition area), it definitely enhances the graphic,
digital floral prints within the Preen collection this season. The colourful floral with geometric overlay print
is the focal point of this collection. I am truly in love with it and how Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi
manipulated it into this wonderful array of looks. I'm sure that many people have got their eye on them to bring
some colour and print back into that dull fall winter wardrobe they have right now. Personally, I'm begging
that they incorporate that beautiful print into a unisex statement sweater that I could wear (thats how good it
is!). My favourite printed look has to be the one Marie Piovesan is working! An overall printed ensemble:
a beautifully cut bomber jacket paired with an amazing dress works so well together. So I guess full on prints are
trending again! What I'm so excited about are the angular cut hemlines. They help reinforce the angular geometric
prints, which helps to tie all aspects within the collection together!

On to my favourite 'non-print' look (2nd Preen picture above). A somewhat 'flacid' cocoon shaped white
crew neck sweater tucked into a beautiful sky blue skirt. I love the cutting of the skirt and how it plays so well
with the setting too! I have to mention how amazing the styling is as well!

No doubts my favourite LFW collection. 

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David Koma: First few words that pop up when I see this collection: edgy, powerful and kimonos. This season,
Koma has turned to the martial arts aspect of Japan. The sleek sharp cuts and angular shapes are so prominent
within this collection, it looks great! What I thoroughly enjoyed seeing were the series of deep royal blue looks
he sent out towards the end. All of them, beautifully cut and look at the leather detailing! The intricate weaving
of the top and the belts are stunning!

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Christopher Kane: I am in love with the spectacular detailing within this collection by Kane! This season,
he was inspired by the flower. Not only were there sweaters with cross sections of flowers, sweaters that
had the word 'FLOWER' on it, Kane also introduced peekaboo cutouts of 'flower petals' into dresses and jackets.
These cutouts almost look as if they're made of metal, and in my opinion, they look like tear drops more than
what he claims them to be, "sterilised petals". Would the Kane 'flower' sweatshirts be made unisex and become
a trend like the Kenzo tiger print ones or the Balenciaga egyptofunk ones? I'm pretty sure a lot of people
would be requesting that in no time. And look at the shoes! They're amazing! I cant really describe what
they remind me of, but right now, I'm seeing the link between these shoes and the Miansai hook bracelet!

London is really going full on flower this season!


- Justin


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